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KASHMIR
Set like a jeweled crown on the map of India, Kashmir is a
many faceted diamond, changing character with the seasons -
always extravagantly beautiful. Three Himalayan ranges;
Karakoram, Zanskar and Pir Panjal - snow capped, majestic,
frame the landscape from northwest to northeast. They are
the birthplace of great rivers, which flow through the
Kashmir valley. Kashmir is certainly one of India’s most
beautiful and popular regions for tourists and has been
since the time of the great Moghul emperors.
The Valley of Kashmir owes its fame, doubtless, not less to
the wild grandeur of the barriers, which surround it than to
its own intrinsic loveliness. It is this contrast, which led
the poets of all nations to speak of it as an "Emerald set
in Pearls". But the varied beauties of Kashmir appeal to
every want and taste. For the cultivator of the soil, there
is fertility of land, abundance of water, variety and plenty
of natural products, whether grains or fruits. For the
herdsman, there is rich pasturage and broad meadows. The
sportsman finds game in the jungles and along the
mountainsides. The fisherman finds ample use for the rod,
the artist for his sketch block and colors, the
archaeologist, linguist, botanist or geologist, Luxuriant
vegetation, or the many geological problems awaiting their
investigation; while they, who have neither hobbies nor
inclinations, who want but rest and amusement in lovely
countryside and pleasant climate, can take their fill out of
Nature's bounty.
As per the legends, the Kashmir valley was once a lake as
large as a sea and here lived an abominable demon who was
killed after most of the lake had been drained with the
collective help of Brahma's grandson, Kashap and the goddess
Parvati. She stilled the demon by dropping upon him a
mountain and thereby crushing him to death. This legendary
mountain is no other than Hari Parbat, Srinagar's 'Takht-i-
Sulaiman' hill that forms the famous backdrop to the city
SRINAGAR
Srinagar, the state capital is situated at an altitude of
1,730 metres and is in the heart of Kashmir valley. No
destination is quite so romantic, no setting as enchanting
as Srinagar. Srinagar is a unique city because of its lakes;
the Dal, Nagin and Anchar. The Dal is a kaleidoscope of
colours with its beautiful houseboats; its Shikara-boats
with their gay canopies. Most delightful and fruitful of
experiences is to stay on a houseboat. The Dal is famous not
only for its beauty, but for the vibrancy it sustains within
its periphery; a life that is uniquely different from
anywhere in the world. The Dal is so central to the
landscape of Srinagar, many places of tourist interest have,
over the ages, been built in its vicinity. Nishat and
Shalimar gardens as well as Hazaratbal mosque are directly
accessible by shikaras. A shikara ride is one of the most
soothing and, relaxing aspects of a holiday in Kashmir. It
can take a hour long ride to see the sights of the Dal, a
shopping by shikara expedition to visit handicraft shops
within the periphery of the lake, or a whole day trip to
visit important city landmarks.
Srinagar’s allure changes with the passing of each season.
Spring, which extends roughly from March to early May, is
when a million blossoms carpet the ground. The weather
during this time can be gloriously pleasant at 23 degree
Celsius or chilly and windy at 6 degree Celsius. This is the
season when Srinagar experiences its rains, but showers are
brief. Summer extends from May and until end August.
Srinagar at this time experiences day temperatures of
between 21 to 30 degree Celsius. At this time, the whole
valley is a mosaic of varying shades of green - paddy
fields, meadows, trees and Srinagar with its lakes and
waterways is a haven. The onset of Autumn, perhaps Kashmir's
loveliest season, is towards September, when green turns to
gold and then to russet and red. The temperatures can go
upto a high of 23 degree Celsius and night temperatures can
dip to 10 degree Celsius by the end of October. Winter,
December through to the beginning of March is the time when
most of the snowfall takes place in Srinagar.
With terraced lawns, cascading fountains, paint-box bright
flowerbeds with the panorama of the Dal in front of them -
the three Mughal Gardens of Chesmashahi, Nishat and Shalimar
are the Mughal emperors’' concept of paradise and are today
very popular places for picnics and excursions. These
gardens are traditionally patterned in the formal gardens of
central Asia, Persia and Turkistan. Chesmashahi is the first
Mughal garden you will pass after Nehru Park. Built at a
height above the city, its views are as stupendous as its
layout. The smallest of Srinagar's Mughal gardens,
Chesmashahi has only three terraces in addition to a natural
spring of water enclosed in a stone pavilion. Nishat, built
by Empress Nur Jahan's brother Asaf Khan. The largest of the
gardens, Nishat has seven terraces. These terraces rise
dramatically off the mountains from the eastern part of the
lake and these together with the flowerbeds, a riot of
brilliant colors, present an unforgettable sight. Shalimar,
the garden of love, was built by Emperor Jehangir, whose
love for the Kashmir was legendary. Shaded by magnificient
Chinar trees, the Shalimar is a series of stones of
pavilions and flowerbeds. Pari Mahal, initially a garden
built by Dara Shikoh for his sufi teacher, Mulla Shah, and
decorated with several springs that have dried up, the Pari
Mahal gardens are now proudly maintained by the state
government. Built around a small spring, they house exotic
flowering plants laid out in terraces and surmounted by the
ruined arches of a once beautiful building. Pari Mahal is
illuminated at night, and can be seen located on the spur of
a hill.
Around Srinagar, there are a number of interesting mosques,
temples and forts and of course, the delightful Moghul
gardens - laid out in formal patterns hundreds of years ago
and every bit as beautiful today. One has to get away from
Srinagar, up to the hill stations around the valley, to
really enjoy Kashmir. Pahalgam, Gulmarg and Sonamarg are all
delightful in themselves, but they also serve as the jumping
off points for Kashmir’s many hiking and trekking
possibilities.
GULMARG
Gulmarg is perhaps the most popular hill station out of
Srinagar and situated at an altitude of 2,730 metres, 56 kms
north-west. The mountain meadow to which the name properly
belongs, is about two miles long, in places half a mile
wide, and is somewhat crescent shaped. All around are
snowcapped mountains. On a clear day you can see all the way
to Nanga Parbat in one direction and Srinagar on the other.
Directly above Gulmarg, at the forest limit, are some other
places called Khilanmarg, Kongdori and seven Springs.
Gulmarg also has one of the world's highest 18-hole golf
courses. Through the summer and well into the autumn,
Gulmarg is a magnetic attraction for golfers from all over
the world. Gulmarg's newly constructed gondola lift from
high above Gulmarg, through pine-clad slopes, offers
exhilarating views of the surrounding scenery. It is the
world’s second highest cable car. Gulmarg is the ultimate
beginner's skiing resort.
PAHALGAM & ARU
Kashmir has a wildlife sanctuary, Aru, which is located close to Pahalgam. The best time to see animals is September
to April and bird viewing from March till August. Pahalgam
has many attractions of its own. Pretty walks and rides and
good fishing. Pahalgam, which is situated at altitude of
2,130 metres and 96 kms east of Srinagar is now known as a
trekker’s paradise as some of the popular treks from
Pahalgam are to the Kolahoi Glacier via Aru, Satlanjan and
Dudsar Lake, and to the high altitude lakes that dot the
meadowland and mountain ridges between Pahalgam and Sonamarg.
Pahalgam has within it no fewer than eight tiny villages,
one of which is Mamal. There is a Shiva temple here,
generally considered to be Kashmir's oldest existing temple
dating back to the 8th century.
CHANDANAWARI
Chandanawari which is 16 kms away from Pahalgam is the
starting point of the holy Amarnath yatra, which takes place
every year in the month of Shrawan (July-August). The
destination is the Amarnath cave, believed to be the abode
of lord Shiva. From the roadhead at Chandanawari the track
becomes steeper, and is accessible only on foot or by pony.
11 km from Chandanwari is the mountain lake of Sheshnag,
after which, 13 km away is the last stop, Panchtarni. The
Amarnath cave is 6 km away from there. During the month of
Shrawan, an ice stalagmite forms a natural Shivling which
waxes and wanes with the phases of the moon. This is
Hinduism’s one of the holiest pilgrimage sites.
SONAMARG
Sonamarg is situated at an altitude of 3,000 metres above
sea level, 87 km north-east of Srinagar. The drive to
Sonamarg is though yet another spectacular facet of the
countryside in Kashmir; this time in the Sindh valley. The
Sindh valley is the largest tributary of the valley of
Kashmir. It is upwards of sixty miles long, and valley and
deep rock-girt gorge to open grassy meadow land and
village-dotted slopes. Sonamarg, which means 'meadow of gold
' has, as its backdrop, snowy mountains against a cerulean
sky. the Sindth meanders along here and abounds with trout
and mahseer, snow trout can be caught in the main river.
Ponies can be hired for the trip up to Thajiwas glacier a
major attraction during the summer months. From Sonamarg,
trekking routes lead to the Himalayan lakes of Vishansar,
Krishnasar (and Gangabal. Other lakes in the region are
Gadsar, stocked with snow trout and Satsar, glacier-fed and
surrounded by banks of alpine flowers. A close by excursion
is to Baltal, 15 km north of Sonamarg. This little valley
lies at the foot of the Zojila, only a day's journey away
from the sacred cave of Amarnath. Trekkers can also reach
the starkly splendid roof-top of the world – Leh, by
crossing over the Zijila Pass.
HOUSEBOATS IN KASHMIR
Kashmir is land of many splendours and surprises but one of
the most delightful and fruitful of experiences here is to
stay on a houseboat. Kashmir is perhaps most famous for the
houseboats on this picturesque Dal Lake. Many tourists
visiting the valley succumbed to the temptation of these
floating palaces. On the placid, jade-hued waters and the
Dal Lake, fringed with willows and chinar trees, houseboats
offer a lifestyle of luxury and elegance. Each houseboat has
anything between two and four bedrooms in it with attached
bathrooms and a common sitting and dining room. The
construction of a houseboat entails innovative, imaginative
as well as luxurious decor to make the stay of guest's as
comfortable as possible. Built of cedar-wood, houseboats
exude a pleasant aroma. The terrace is one of its best
features and serves as a sun-deck, a place for morning
work-outs if one is given to that practice, and for evening
cocktails. Shaded by willows, yet offering an unhindered
view of the surroundings, one can spend whole evening
watching the sun set behind the magnificent circle of
mountains and the lake waters shimmering under the golden
rays. Generally individual houseboats have their fixed
anchorages around the lake's circumference beaded along
terraces of flowers. The venue is fixed and at times
four-five houseboats are moored together with
inter-connecting bridges to enable people to move from one
boat to the other. A verandah or balcony on one of these
fancily named houseboats is an ideal place to relax. The
drawing-room of the houseboat opulent yet tastefully
decorated, seems like a leaf out of 'Better Homes and
Gardens'. The dining-room and adjoining pantry are equipped
with refrigerator and all other facilities to ensure your
satisfaction. Bedrooms are generally in a row along the
passage. The kitchen-boat is attached to the main houseboat
and this is where the boat-keeper resides with his family. A
day on the houseboat commences on a very pleasant note. You
are woken at dawn to the lyrical call of the early birds:
the bulbul, and the nightingale, kingfishers dart about as
the first rays of sun set aglow the pink-white and
blue-tinged lotus flowers. Gentle water breeze sends soft
ripples over the water-surface and mountains emerge from the
morning mist, fresh and majestic. The Dal, lightens slowly
in the early sunshine, and soon is witness to dappled
reflections of gaily decorated houseboats, and the flowers
above the shore-line gardens in all their splendour.
KARGIL
The western parts of Ladakh comprising the river valleys,
which are drained and formed by the Himalayan tributaries of
the high Indus, constitute Kargil district. Prominent among
these are the spectacular valleys of Suru and Zanskar, which
lie nestled along the northern flank of the Great Himalayan
wall. Kargil situated at an altitude of 2704 m, 204 kms from
Srinagar in the west and 234 kms from Leh in the east, is
the second largest urban centre of Ladakh and headquarters
of the district of same name. Kargil is the most important
town in the Suru Valley. There are a number of other
settlements of significant size in the Suru Valley. Kargil
is a fairly busy town servicing the villages of the
surrounding region. The important Srinagar-Leh road passes
through Kargil. Kargil once served as important trade and
transit centre in the Pan-Asian trade network. Numerous
caravans carrying exotic merchandise comprising silk,
brocade, carpets, felts, tea, poppy, ivory etc. transited in
the town on their way to and from China, Tibet, Yarkand and
Kashmir. The old bazaar displayed a variety of Central Asian
and Tibetan commodities even after the cessation of the
Central Asian trade in 1949 till these were exhausted about
two decades ago. Similarly the ancient trade route passing
through the township was lined with several caravanserais.
Situated 45 kms East of Kargil on the road to Leh, Mulbek
(3230 m) in an area dominated by the Buddhists. It is
situated along either banks of the Wakha River. Many
monuments of the early Buddhist era dot the landscape and
are easily accessible.
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